Origins of the Russian Shawls (1)

 

Origins of the Russian Shawls (1)

 

Although shawls with Indian and Turkish ornament have been popular at the start of the century, realistically shaded flowers, which have been a good deal harder to weave than the flat Indian decoration, have become virtually synonymous with Russian double-confronted scarf design. These naturalistic floral designs survived the change from the stoles worn in the teenagers and twenties to the rectangular shawls worn at some point of the thirties and into the '40s. Their continual recognition may be due to an appreciation among the aristocracy for that which changed into exceptionally Russian.

With the Russian scarf placed in social and ancient context, what follows is new information on the workshops, their owners and the strategies of manufacturing. The owner is the phrase utilized by most Russian assets for the property workshop owners, who may additionally or might not have taken energetic roles within the control of their factories.

Russian scarf manufacturing began within the first years of the 19th century. In 1804, a manufacturing facility owned by way of Prince Yusupov commenced making shawls with silk warps and merino wool before goat fleece weft patterning. The shawls had patterned fields, slim lengthwise borders, and ends ornamented with bouquets. The factory made kerchiefs with identical designs in natural goat fleece12 The Prince had three shops in which shawls made in his manufacturing unit were offered.

A manufacturing unit existed on the property of the Princes Enikeev. Wraps, scarves, and kerchiefs were woven on small vertical looms with bobbins of the greatest angora goat’s fleece and silk warps.

By the quantity of surviving reviews about her, Vera Andreevna Eliseeva changed into the extra outstanding of the two girl shawl factory owners. We understand little approximately her in my view, apart from the truth that she turned into a Second Lieutenant’s spouse and that in 1826 or 1827, she was venerated by means of being provided to the Empress Maria Feodorovna. She presented Nicholas I with certainly one of her quality shawls and obtained a jewel-encrusted move from him.

Although no shawls with Eliseeva’s mark had been determined in museum collections, a swatch survives in Russia, appended to an editorial about her.15 It is woven in the Indian technique. A shawl in Moscow’s State Museum is inside the fashion for which Eliseeva changed into acknowledged.16 It is woven in double- 2/2 twill, however with a number of shades and use of naturalistic flowers to form “both” shapes, which are quintessentially Russian. Eliseeva’s products are probably known as genuine imitation Kashmir shawls.

The degree to which the obsession for shawls impacted Russia’s balance of trade became taken very seriously: a writer’s note to a piece of writing on Eliseeva explains that greater than 2 million rubles really worth of foreign shawls per yr had been imported in each 1825 and 1826.17 On pinnacle of this there has been smuggling. “If one provides to this secret importation, for which those items are ideally fitted, then the valuation increases even greater considerably. One must additionally no longer forget about the unfortunate condition that because the Asian peoples who bring us the shawls and shawl-material kerchiefs have little use for our items, Russia is required to pay sizable sums of gold and silver. Yearly for their merchandise.”1® Russian records place the annual cost of imports for that duration at eighty million gold rubles19; with shawls on behalf of 2.6% of imports, no surprise the State endorsed a home shawl enterprise. So the motive for Eliseeva’s acclaim turns into obvious: “…if the country spends a massive sum on orders of Turkish then Kashmir shawls, and if these shawls could be ready to such perfection in Russia, then a massive sum could be saved.”20 Unfortunately, as near as may be decided, Eliseeva’s factory never produced sufficient shawls to affect the import balance.

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